I start this post with a surprisingly upbeat mood, because I'll be honest, when I agreed to share the driving in Puglia this summer, I wasn't exactly feeling great about it. But if driving in Italy is something you're considering doing yourself, there are a few things you really need to know.
If you've ever been to Southern Italy before, you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. You'll have noticed the unmarked roads, the dents in the cars, the pushing in at junctions, the one way systems, the parking - good grief the parking, the pedestrians that walk out into the road without looking and the nail-biting overtaking! It can only be described as utter chaos.
Albeit utter chaos to the untrained eye. Actually, it's incredibly organised chaos.
After a while, you realise there's a kind of knack to it, a body language that other drivers seem to understand. Beeps become friendly banter, drivers will usually stop for you if you edge out, spatial awareness adapts and after a while using the gear stick on the other side becomes second nature.
I had driven in Northern Italy when I was 18, as an Au Pair in Rimini. But the idea of driving in the South terrified me (at 24). I was lucky that my dad could be there to 'walk' me through it. He told me to anticipate what every single other driver and pedestrian was going to do, make sure you're always in the middle of the road and keep in the mindset that you're on holiday; if you want to go slow you will go slow. And that's exactly what I did!
And here are a few of my tips:
1. Don't be intimidated - Drivers will tailgate you, whether you're in the back streets of an old town or a Strada Statale. They just want to get past you and as soon as they get an opportunity they'll be gone. It's not rude, it's just the way they do it.
2. Enjoy the parking - Getting the hang of parking comes with the practice of driving. It's obviously advisable to park as well as you would anywhere else but you'll notice that the drivers here create a new meaning to concept. If they can't fit in they'll just front-end it!
3. Push in - Don't be afraid to edge in if you're stuck at a junction or in a parking space. NO-ONE is going to let you in unless you tell them that's what you intend to do. We saw one pair of traffic lights the entire week this year, you need to get bold. It's what the other drivers expect you to do and unless you're really stupid, you're not likely to get hit.
4. Don't be fooled by flashing - This is a really important one. If a driver flashes you, it does not mean they are letting you go it means get out of the way!!
5. Stop for Pedestrians - There's an unwritten rule that you will let pedestrians go. Alot of them won't even look when they step out on to the road so you need to expect that that's what they're going to do. As a pedestrian yourself, the same rule applies - no-one is going to stop for you unless you walk out on to the road. It seems really dangerous, but there seems to be a mutual understanding about this.
And don't forget, always check the parking rules as it's not always free. You have to pay for the Autostrada (Motorway) if you use it, and generally in my experience you can get to pretty much any town in your local area by following the signs - a true attribute.
Good luck!
Trullo Carlotta is lovely family-owned villa in Castellana Grotte, Puglia. To find out more about Trullo Carlotta including key info, features and facilities and prices please visit our website www.trullocarlotta.com.
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